Whirlpool Dryer Troubleshooting Guide

Your Whirlpool dryer is built to last—but sometimes it can act up. Whether it won’t start, doesn’t spin, won’t heat, makes strange noises, or shows error codes—don’t panic. Most problems are fixable with simple steps. Let’s break it down in plain English.

🧭 Quick Outline

  • 1. Dryer won’t start
  • 2. Does not spin or drum doesn’t turn
  • 3. Dryer doesn’t heat or clothes come out damp
  • 4. Error codes and “Check Vent” indicator
  • 5. Strange noises—squeaks, whining or grinding
  • 6. Thermal fuse, thermostat or high limit fuse issues
  • 7. Best maintenance habits
  • 8. When to call a technician

1. Dryer Won’t Start

First, confirm it’s plugged in, the door is firmly closed, and the power cord has full contact. Make sure no “Child Lock” or control lock is active. Sometimes breakers trip without looking flipped. Turn off both related breakers for 30 seconds, then turn back on and try again.

If it still doesn’t start, the control board might be faulty. These boards manage timing and functions, and if damaged they may need replacing.

2. Drum Doesn’t Spin

You may hear the motor run, but no drum movement—that often means a broken drive belt. Open the unit and check if the belt is intact. A belt switch may also prevent spinning if the belt is snapped.

Other causes include a seized drum or a failed motor. In one real scenario, someone confirmed it was the belt, ordered a replacement, and the dryer worked again.

3. Dryer Doesn’t Heat or Clothes Stay Damp

If the drum spins but clothes stay damp, check lint filters and exhaust vents first—airflow is essential. Clean the lint screen after each use, and deep-clean the vent system at least once a year.

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Always remove kinks in the vent hose and ensure proper outside airflow. A blocked exhaust makes drying slow and risks overheating or even fire.

For electric models: ensure the dryer receives full 240 V. One user discovered only one breaker leg was connected, dropping power to 120 V so the dryer would spin but not heat.

Gas models: confirm the gas valve is fully open. If the valve is closed, the drum turns but no heat is generated.

If power and airflow are fine but there’s still no heat, test thermostats and the heating element or burner. A blown thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat will stop heating. These parts require testing with a multimeter and often require professional replacement.

4. Error Codes and “Check Vent” Light

Many Whirlpool dryers display codes like AF, F# E#, PF, or L2. “AF” or F4 E3 indicates restricted airflow. The dryer may still run, but drying will be slow. Clean the lint filter and the vent path to resolve it.

Codes like F1, F2, F3, etc. paired with an E code signal internal faults in motors, sensors, or the board. Reset by unplugging for a few minutes. If errors return, service is likely needed.

“L2” means low voltage—often one breaker is tripped. Replace fuses or reset breakers. “PF” is a power failure alert—press “Start” or “Power” to clear.

5. Strange Noises

Squeaks and squeals often point to worn roller shafts, idler pulleys, or belt issues. If the drum twists freely but makes noise, these parts should be inspected.

Some heat-pump dryers also develop a loud wail from the condensate pump motor. One user found that unplugging the pump stopped the noise—though replacing the sealed pump was the proper fix.

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If sounds come from the front, the idler pulley might be loose. If from the back, suspect bearings or motor wear.

6. Thermal Fuse or Thermostat Trouble

If your dryer heats but won’t tumble, it might be a thermal fuse or thermostat issue. Thermal fuses are one-time safety devices that cut power if overheating is detected. Once blown, they must be replaced.

Some Whirlpool timers made in Mexico had internal heat contact failures. Even when the timer advances, those internal switches may be burned and prevent power to the heater end. If thermostats and element test okay, the timer could be the guilty part.

7. Best Maintenance Habits

  • Clean the lint screen after every load.
  • Clear the dryer vent path fully once every six months.
  • Avoid overloading—fill drum only up to three‑quarters full.
  • Level the dryer to prevent noise or wear.
  • Test or inspect sensors and thermostats annually if you’re noticing drying issues.

8. When to Call a Professional

Get help when:

  • Error codes persist after resetting.
  • The drum won’t spin and belt checks don’t reveal a visible break.
  • The dryer gets hot but still doesn’t dry clothes.
  • Noise continues after belt or pulley inspection.
  • You smell burning or see burn marks inside.
  • The unit is still under warranty and manual fixes fail.

🔍 Real-Life Stories

One user’s dryer heated but wouldn’t spin. They replaced an $11 thermal fuse and it worked again. A real belt failure was also diagnosed by opening the top, confirming the issue. Both simple fixes that saved a call-out fee.

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In another case, a dryer spun but didn’t heat. The culprit turned out to be a miswired breaker—only one leg of power was active. Fixing the breaker restored full 240 V and heat returned.

One modern heat-pump dryer was making a loud noise intermittently. The user discovered a failing condensate pump motor was the cause. Unplugging it made the noise stop, and replacement fixed it permanently.

✅ Quick Fix Summary

  • Won’t start? Check power, door switch, control lock.
  • No spin? Inspect belt and pulley mechanism.
  • No heat? Clean vents, confirm full voltage or gas flow, check thermostats and fuse.
  • Error codes? Reset power. If they return, consider control board or sensor replacement.
  • Noisy? Investigate rollers, pulley, bearings, or condensate pump.
  • Regular upkeep? Clean lint, vent, level machine, avoid overloading.
  • Still stuck? Bring in a licensed technician.

Final Thoughts

A Whirlpool dryer usually gives years of reliable service, but minor issues do crop up. Start with the easy checks—power, airflow, belts, and cleaning. Resetting your dryer is often the first move, and don’t underestimate lint—they’re more dangerous than they look.

If basic fixes don’t work, or if error codes or smells persist, it’s time for a technician. Many issues tie back to safety parts or board failures that require professional replacement. But with a little know-how and care, most common dryer troubles are solved at home.

Happy to answer any specific error code or situation you’re facing. You’ve got this—soon enough your clothes will be dry and your dryer humming along like new.


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