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When the Drum Won’t Spin (Even Though Other Cycles Work)
If your machine fills and hums—but the drum doesn’t turn—that often means:
- The drive belt slipped or snapped.
- The motor brushes or motor itself is worn or dead.
- The door lock/safety switch isn’t registering closed.
That scenario is surprisingly common: the rest of the machine behaves, but the drum stays still. Faulty belts or motor parts are often the culprit.:contentReference[oaicite:0]{index=0}
When the Drum Makes Loud Noise or Vibration
Big drums, fast spins, and uneven loads can cause:
- Imbalance in the load—like a single heavy item.
- Worn shock absorbers or tension springs so the drum shakes.
- A broken spider arm or cracked tub support causing misalignment.
This often leads to banging noises or even movement across the floor. Eventually, worn suspension or housing damage can occur.:contentReference[oaicite:1]{index=1}
When Clothes Come Out Soaking Wet Despite a Spin Cycle
That usually happens when:
- The pump or drain is blocked, preventing a full spin.
- A sensor misreads water left inside and slows the spin.
- The drum spins but very slowly due to motor or belt strain.
Blocked drain hoses and sensors are often overlooked, even when the drum appears operational.:contentReference[oaicite:2]{index=2}
When the Drum Feels Loose or Wobbles by Hand
Grab the drum and try to push it side-to-side—excessive movement or knocking may signal:
- Worn or broken bearings.
- Broken suspension springs.
- A cracked drum spider arm or misaligned drum.
These parts support accurate rotation, and failure leads to looseness or misalignment.:contentReference[oaicite:3]{index=3}
When the Drum Makes Grinding or Rubbing Sounds
Gravel-like noise or resistance turning the drum manually points to worn bearings or damaged seals. These problems mean the drum is scraping or riding badly inside the tub.:contentReference[oaicite:4]{index=4}
When the Drum or Tub Leaks Water
If there’s water under the drum zone, possible causes are:
- A seal around the drum or tub is worn or cracked.
- The drum has a leak or hole in it from damage or corrosion.
- Foreign objects wore through the inner drum surface.
In some rare repair threads, users patched actual holes with plastic welding tools—but most drum leaks require full drum or tub replacement.:contentReference[oaicite:5]{index=5}
🚦 Quick Troubleshooting Table
| Problem | Likely Cause | What to Try |
|---|---|---|
| Drum won’t spin | Belt snapped, motor fault, door lock edge | Unplug, check belt/motor/latch, test turn by hand |
| Vibration or banging | Load imbalance, bad suspension, broken spider | Balance load; test suspension springs; inspect spider support |
| Wet clothes after spin | Clogged drain or slow spin | Clean drain pump, test spin speed, check sensors |
| Drum wobbles when turned | Worn bearings, sagging tub parts | Feel drum movement; inspect bearings/supports |
| Grinding or scraping noise | Damaged bearing or seal | Turn drum by hand; listen for rough spots |
| Water leak near drum | Seal/tub damage, drum hole | Dry area; inspect seals and inner drum |
🔧 Step‑by‑Step Fix Guide
- Unplug the washer and turn off water.
- Rotate the drum by hand—does it move freely or with resistance?
- Run a rinse-and-spin empty test: listen and watch for odd motion.
- Rebalance load, and retest. Large items often cause trouble.
- Open the back or bottom panel; inspect drive belt and motor coupling.
- Support the tub and check suspension springs or dampers for wear. Replace springs if broken.:contentReference[oaicite:6]{index=6}
- Inspect spider arm for cracks or rust. Replace if necessary.
- Replace bearings or seals if noise or leaks persist.
- If drum itself has holes, patch only as a temporary fix. Full replacement may be best.:contentReference[oaicite:7]{index=7}
Mid‑Article Reminder: SEPTIFIX for Your Plumbing Health
While you’re repairing the drum or cleaning filters, don’t forget your septic system. One monthly tablet of SEPTIFIX prevents clogs, controls odors, and protects your drains. A smart move while fixing home systems. Order SEPTIFIX now!
When to Call a Technician
Contact a professional repair service if:
- The drum or tub structure is damaged or cracked.
- Bearings, spider arm, or seals are worn and complex to replace.
- The motor/direct-drive unit fails or electrical components feel unsafe.
- Drum leak is extensive or patching is insufficient.
- The machine is more than 10 years old and recurring problems occur.:contentReference[oaicite:8]{index=8}
Depending on the issue, professional repairs can cost between $150–$400. If multiple major parts need replacement, you may consider replacing the machine altogether.
How to Prevent Drum Issues in the Future
- Balance laundry loads evenly—avoid single bulky items.
- Run a hot maintenance cycle with vinegar or commercial cleaner monthly to remove residue.:contentReference[oaicite:9]{index=9}
- Avoid overloading—or under-filling—the drum. Half-to-three‑quarters full is best.:contentReference[oaicite:10]{index=10}
- Level the machine on a solid floor and remove any transit bolts.
- Clean the drum seal, gasket area, and filter regularly.
- Check loading instructions—avoid mixing towels and bedding that can clump and unbalance.:contentReference[oaicite:11]{index=11}
Final Thoughts
Drum problems can be frustrating, but many issues—from the drum not spinning to wobbling, noise, or leaks—are fixable with patient inspection and routine maintenance. Still, when mechanical parts like bearings, spider arms, or seals fail, or excessive movement causes structural damage, professional help is your safest route.
And don’t forget septic care too. One monthly tablet of SEPTIFIX protects your plumbing from clogs, bad smells, and backups—while you get your washer back on track. Just flush and forget it. Order SEPTIFIX now!
Have a specific machine brand or feel/wobble code showing? Tell me the model and symptoms—I’ll guide you further.