When your dryer tumbles but clothes come out wet or barely warm, it’s super annoying. But don’t worry—it’s one of the most common laundry problems, and most times it’s fixable at home. Here’s a clear, step-by-step guide to help you track down the issue.
Why It’s Important
A dryer that spins but doesn’t heat wastes time, energy, and leaves you frustrated. Fixing it helps your clothes dry faster, saves on electricity, and keeps your appliance running longer.
Top Reasons Your Dryer Isn’t Heating
Here are the typical causes, from most common to a bit more involved:
- Clogged lint filter or vent system
- Blown thermal fuse
- Faulty heating element
- Broken thermostat or temperature sensor
- Tripped breaker or low voltage (especially in electric dryers)
- Defective timer/control board
1. Clean the Lint Filter & Vent
Lint build-up is the number one cause of heating issues and even fire hazards:
- Empty and clean the lint trap after every load.
- Every six months, vacuum under the trap and clean the housing area.
- Disconnect the vent hose and clean out lint and blockages. Use a brush or vacuum.
- If lint is deep in your home’s vent, consider professional cleaning—especially if drying times stretch or it feels very hot near the dryer.
2. Check the Power Supply & Breaker
Electric dryers need full 240 volts to heat—if one side trips, the dryer won’t get hot:
- Inspect your home’s breaker box and reset any tripped switches.
- If the dryer runs but doesn’t heat, one leg of the 240V circuit may be missing voltage.
- In gas dryers, ensure the gas valve is turned on and the supply is steady.
3. Replace the Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is a safety device that cuts power to the heating element if temperatures get too high:
- If it blows, the dryer may spin but won’t heat at all.
- It’s not resettable—you’ll need to test it with a multimeter and replace it if there’s no continuity.
- Also find out why it blew (usually a vent blockage) so the new one doesn’t blow too.
4. Test the Heating Element
In electric dryers, the heating element is what actually produces heat. If it’s broken, no warm air.
- Use a multimeter to check for continuity—most elements test around 10–20 ohms.
- If there’s no continuity or the element looks broken, it will need to be replaced.
- Heating elements can wear out over time or burn out if airflow was restricted.
5. Inspect Thermostats and Temperature Switches
Dryers include several safety thermostats that regulate temperature:
- High‑limit thermostat prevents overheating—if it fails, it may block heating entirely.
- Cycling thermostat controls heating intervals—if it’s stuck open, your dryer may run cool.
- Operating thermostat connects power to the heat—test each with a meter for continuity.
6. Check the Timer or Control Board
These parts control the dryer’s cycle timing and heat activation:
- If cycles run but heat never comes on, a failed timer or board may be to blame.
- This step is more advanced—unless you’re comfortable with wiring, it’s smart to get help.
7. Do a Quick Test Run
After cleaning or replacing parts, always run a test load:
- Load a few damp towels, use a normal heat cycle, and feel if the dryer gets hot within 5–10 minutes.
- If heat comes and stays stable, you’re good. If it heats briefly then stops—check airflow and thermostats again.
Real Users Share Their Fixes
“My dryer spun, but no heat—turned out a tiny strand of lint deep in the vent had clogged everything. Cleaned it and it heated fine.”
“Replaced the thermal fuse after cleaning the vent, and it came back to life. I also replaced the thermostat just to be safe.”
“Used a meter to test the heating coil—it was open. Swapped it out and now towels dry fast again.”
Dryer Heating Troubleshooting Checklist
- Clean the lint screen after every load.
- Vacuum under the lint trap and clean housing area every few months.
- Disconnect and clean the vent hose and wall vent exit.
- Check breaker box and reset tripped circuits (both legs for electric dryers).
- With power off, test and replace the thermal fuse if needed.
- Test the heating element with a multimeter—replace if no continuity.
- Check all thermostats for continuity and replace faulty ones.
- If still no heat, inspect or replace timer or control board (consider professional help).
- Run a test cycle with towels to confirm heat returns.
When to Call a Technician
If none of the above steps restore heat—or if you’re not comfortable testing electrical parts—it’s best to contact a qualified appliance repair person. Especially if wiring, control boards, or gas systems are involved. They can diagnose safely and replace parts correctly.
Preventive Tips to Avoid Future Problems
- Clean lint screen after each load.
- Deep-clean vent system (including wall exit) every 6–12 months.
- Avoid overloading your dryer—keep loads to about ¾ full.
- Ensure airflow is clear—no crushed or kinked hoses.
- If you have gas dryer, inspect gas lines and fittings regularly.
Final Thoughts
A dryer that spins but doesn’t heat usually has a common cause—like a clogged vent, blown fuse, or failed heating element. Following these steps will let you tackle things one by one. If you’re calm and methodical, you’ll often fix it yourself.
Dry clothes ahead! 🔥👕